How to: Katniss Everdeen Make-up from Catching Fire

The Hunger Games is one of my favourite film series, and when Catching Fire came out I was really looking forward to seeing what make-up I would see as the make-up in the first film was so colourful and very random! And I was not let down. The make-up looks they created for Katniss were really beautiful and played a big part of her costume. I think Katniss would be a great character to cosplay as so if you are looking for inspiration then I hope this helps! 



The Tribute Parade

In this part of the film, Katniss has very dramatic make-up. She has jet black eyes with an intricate gold pattern underneath and around it, very long eyelashes and defined brows. Her lips are a natural coral colour while her foundation is her natural skin tone with some shading and blush. 



Eyes:

Use a normal eye shadow brush, and a highly pigmented black eye shadow and create the shape. Start from the inner corner of your eye and curve it up towards the arch of your eyebrow and out towards the end of your eyebrow. Then curve it down to the outer corner of your eye. Next, fill it in, making sure it isn't patchy, use a fluffy blending brush to achieve this. I also blended the line so it looked more 'smoky'. Then, use the edge of your eye shadow brush to create two flicks on the outer corner. Next, bring the black down underneath your eye, right to the inner corner and then extend it out onto your nose. 

Then use a black kohl pencil in the water line. 

Next, dot a gel or liquid liner on the top line of the eye shadow to create a dappled effect. 

Now for the gold. I used a gold liquid liner but I think a gel liner would have been better. I used the liner's own brush but you can use your own if you prefer or if you're using a gel, start from the inner corner of your eye and follow the eye shadow all the way up to the flick, then branch off with one flicking up, and then two flicking down. Then use a small liner brush and shade in between the gold and underneath so it makes it stand out. 

Next, apply some false lashes. Apply an eyelash glue along the lashes, wait for it to dry a little bit and using your fingers or tweezers carefully place them as close to your lash line as you can, holding them in place until they are dry. Then apply a little mascara to join your lashes with the false ones, and apply some mascara on your bottom lashes. 

To finish off the eyes, fill in your eye brows, keeping a natural shape.

Face:


Use your normal foundation and apply it as you usually would, being careful around the eyes. I do eye make-up first before foundation as I can rid of any fall out without having to remove the foundation. 

Then apply a powder to get rid of any shine.

Then use an angled blusher brush and a dark blusher and shade underneath your cheekbones and jaw line.

Then apply an orange/pink blush on your cheeks.

Lips:

Use a lip brush to apply a neutral colour such as a natural pink or coral with some clear gloss over the top. 

Capitol Party at the president's mansion 

In this part of the film Katniss has dramatic eyes again. She wears bold orange eye shadow with an elegant flick of eyeliner top and bottom with white separating them and long eye lashes. Again, she has a natural skin tone with shading and blusher. Her lips are a pale pink.

Eyes:

Using an eye shadow brush, apply a pale yellow eye shadow all over your eyelid up to your eye brow. Then use an orange eye shadow and apply this over your eye lid 3 quarters of the way in and not past the crease. Then take a fluffy blending brush and blend this upwards and out towards the outer corner, curving it down from the end of your eye brow to the outer corner of your eye. Then with the blending blush take a small amount of a red eye shadow and blend it into the outer corner and in the crease.

Then use a liquid or gel liner and very thin brush and line along the lash line and flick upwards and out, in line with the eye shadow. Do this for the lower lash line as well. Apply a bright white pencil or eye shadow between the flicks. Then line the water line with a black kohl pencil. 

You could use false lashes again, however I just curled mine and applied mascara.

Then fill in your eye brows, keeping a natural shape.

Face:


Use your normal foundation and apply it how you would normally. Then apply a powder to get rid of any shine.

Then using an angled blush brush and a dark blush, shade under your cheekbones and jaw line. Then apply a pink blush on the cheeks and dust lightly over your forehead, nose and chin.

Lips:


Use a lip brush and a apply a natural pink or light pink colour on your lips.

Wedding make-up 


Katniss is forced to wear her wedding dress on TV and this is make-up she wears with it. It is very pretty
and elegant but also carries powerful imagery as have the others. She has a silver smoky eye with winged eye liner and long, feathery lashes, her foundation is natural with shading and blusher and pale pink lips. In the scene, she spins and her wedding dress is transformed into a 'Mockingjay' outfit which sends a very controversial message. Her make-up is also made to reflect that of a mockingjay with the feathery lashes.





Eyes:

This a design that you can very much make your own. If you don't have the right accessories (like me) such as the lashes and/or the gems then you can find other ways to achieve this look. 

First, take an eye shadow brush and apply a black shadow along the lid, not all the way up to the crease.

 
Then apply a shimmery silver above the black, and then a very light silver above that. Then take a blending brush and blend these together taking it out towards the outer corner of the eye making a curve. Then apply a white, pearly shimmer underneath the eyebrow and blend this down to the inner corner of the eye. 

Next, using a black gel or liquid liner, apply along the lash line, quite thinly, and wing it out and up towards the end of your eye brow. As I didn't have gems, I then dotted four dots of liner on my lower lash line. You could also use a silver for this.

Then, apply some false lashes or lots of mascara and fill in your eye brows, keeping a natural shape.


Face:

Use your normal foundation and apply as you would normally. Apply a powder to get rid of any shine. Then use an angled blush brush and a dark blusher and shade under your cheekbones and jawline. Then apply a pink blush to your cheeks and lightly over your forehead, nose and chin. 


Lips:

Using a lip brush, apply a baby/pale pink and then apply a pearly white shimmer to the middle of your lips and blend this out.

How to: The basics of highlighting and shading

It is very useful to know how to highlight and shade a face correctly. You can enhance certain facial features and hide others, you can also change the look of a person's entire facial structure. 
Now, I have a round shaped face so I like to shade under my cheekbones to give the appearance that I do actually have them and under my jaw. 

• The key is to shade where shadows naturally fall and highlight where light naturally hits the face.

Here is a picture of where to highlight and shade on the face:

These are the areas that I like to shade and highlight on my face, I hollow out my cheekbones using a dark blush and then use a light pink on the apples of my cheeks. Or if you prefer, you can use a foundation that is two tones darker than your natural shade and use that to shade. Apply it with a foundation brush or your fingers and then blend. To highlight I use a foundation that is two tones lighter. 

Depending on your face shape you may not want to highlight certain areas, for example if you have a prominent chin you may want to shade it instead to make it look less prominent. If you want to make your nose look narrower then you can highlight down the middle and then shade on the sides and vice versa if you want to make your nose look wider. 

I also like to highlight under my eyebrows because I think it really helps to make your eyes stand out and it also helps to define your brow shape. Highlighting your cupid's bow also really helps to define your lip shape. Shading your temples and jaw line can also help to make a round face more structured by making it look more square, however if you have a square face and want to soften it then highlighting your temples and jawline can achieve this.

So you can achieve just about anything with this technique!

Hope this helps you and hoped you enjoyed reading.

Bye for now,

Beth x

facebook.com/bethhaggarmakeup

A Triumph Stag, a fake arm and lots of blood!

I recently did the make-up for a trailer for a book with a small start up production company called Donroy Films. They make short films and other things and I really love working with them. I've worked with them once before on a project that is still ongoing.

This trailer was for a book called 'Dangerous' and the author wanted a short film-like trailer to go with it. We filmed in various local locations, the production company is self funded so they couldn't travel far to more extravagant locations but the places we did film were just as good. I was the only make-up artist so I was emailed the storyboard and had to work out what make-up people needed for each scene. It involved quite a lot of blood and injuries which is always fun!

Whatever you do as a make-up artist whether it be film, stage etc, you will wait around for long periods of time. There is the initial rush before the scene where you are doing your work and then as soon as its done you'll have to wait for the rest of the team to film the scene which could take hours so I always make sure I bring a book with me (and lots of food!).

In one scene there needed to be a fake hand hanging out of a car boot, the car was a beautiful Triumph Stag, the hand itself looked pretty rubbish, the skin colour was a bit odd and this made it look really fake. So I used supracolour to darken the skin a bit and shade in the creases on the fingers so the camera would pick it up, I also made the sleeves dirty and added lots of blood. This gave it a more realistic look, we couldn't use a real person's arm as the car's boot was far too small for a person to fit in.

In another scene I had to make someone look dead as they were to be in a morgue and give them a bullet wound on the side of the head. Its hard to make a bullet wound look old as 'fresh' running blood is what makes a bullet wound look good so to a achieve an older look I put the blood on and dabbed it so it looked more like a stain. I think this worked quite well. To make the actor look dead I made his skin pale and shaded under his cheekbones and jaw line, I also gave him dark circles under his eyes and a blue tinge to his lips.

On the last day was the most difficult scene. They wanted to 'shoot' someone and have blood splatter on a wall behind them in one take. I had no idea how to achieve this, but the only way it would've been possible would be to have someone off camera sitting behind the person holding something that could splatter the blood. We came up with different contraptions that could splatter the blood- drain pumps, hoses, hand pumps but none were working the way we wanted. So in the end all we did was use a water bottle! Someone sat behind the actor and as his neck was in shadow I did a quick bullet wound and some running blood so when he was shot and flung his head back into the light you could see it, and the person 'shooting' counted down so they could time it right with the blood splatter. In the end it looked really good and I can't wait to see the final thing! Normal artificial blood is usually thick and gloopy and not very good for squirting as such, so I made my own using corn syrup, water and red food colouring and made it runnier than blood should be so we could squirt it easily. 

These people don't have the highest quality equipment or the easiest locations but they still manage to make amazing, quality stuff and I cannot wait to see the finished trailer. I took a few photos but I'll be sure to get some more stills when the trailer is released. 

Setting up the camera and positioning the fake arm

Testing the camera angle

Old looking bullet wound make-up

Anyway, thank you for reading!

Beth x

Review: Rimmel Stay Matte Foundation

Rimmel have recently launched a new foundation range called 'Stay Matte'. They describe it as a 'lightweight liquid mousse' and they claim it leaves skin 'shineless' and 'cakeless'. And let me tell you they are not lying! I was really excited to try it as I have been searching for a mattifying foundation for what seems like forever and none of them have lived up to their word. But my search is over! My skin turned instantly matte when I applied it and felt silky smooth.

I was a bit sceptical of the bottle as it is a tube and not a glass bottle with a pump like their other foundations were so I thought it wouldn't last half as long as a glass bottle would. However, there is the same amount in these tubes and a little blob covered half of my face so you really don't have to use much at all.

It is thick in texture but blends flawlessly and doesn't feel heavy at all. You don't have to apply a powder over it however I still do just to set it. It also doesn't feel dry so people with dry skin would be able to use this and also wouldn't have to use powder. For people with oily skin like me it is a dream come true as it just instantly left my skin shine free. 

To apply it I put a small blob on my finger and start on one side of my face and blend it out across my cheek and nose and up to my temple and down to my jawline and chin and then do the same on the other side. I then use a tiny amount for my forehead and nose. A little goes a long way with this foundation so I'm hoping it will last as long as the bottles as they last me a long while. 

I am really happy with this foundation and would recommend it to everyone, I never stay with the same foundation but I think I will stick with this one!

How to: Terminator inspired special effects make-up

Hi all, I've recently been playing around with using tin foil to look like metal underneath the skin. I tried it on my sister's arm first just to see how it would look and I was very pleased with the outcome! I then tried it on my own face and was also pleased with how this looked! I took inspiration from the Terminator films, it such a classic character and this would be a great look for halloween!
This is how I achieved it...

You will need:
Tin foil
Spirit gum and spirit gum remover
cinewax
Supracolour in red and black and bruise colours
Metal spatula
Artificial blood
Any brush you don't mind getting messy!

For the arm:
I wanted to make it look like there were gashes revealing the metal underneath so first off:

• I tore pieces of the tin foil into random strips making sure they didn't have any perfect edges.
• Then apply spirit gum to the edges and stick down where desired. (spirit gum is very, very strong glue so try to use as little as possible)
• I also applied thin strips of foil on a finger, and also on half of one and added little circles of foil on the back of the hand.
• Then, roll pieces of wax into sausages and using the spatula apply to the edges of the foil. This is to create the look of skin.
• I then used a small brush to outline the edges in red and blend it outwards onto the wax using my fingers. Then add some black around the edges to give the effect of burnt skin.
• I then added quite a lot of dark artificial blood to the foil and basically everywhere on the arm, blood just gives it that gore factor which makes it look more effective and realistic.

Finished look:

For the face:

You'll need the same materials as above. I just covered one half of my face but you can cover whichever areas you prefer. However try to avoid using the spirit gum too close to the eye as the skin is more delicate and more susceptible to damage. 

• I used larger pieces of foil this time, but not just one large piece as it wouldn't be flexible with the movement of the face and would be uncomfortable. 
• I first used a skin colour supracolour as a base for a bit more protection against the spirit gum and just applied this with a foundation brush. Then I stuck the foil to my face where I wanted them. As I wanted it to cover my eyebrow I applied a layer of wax over my eyebrow to stop any spirit gum sticking to the hairs as this would hurt a lot to get out!
• Once all the foil was stuck on and made sure the edges were all stuck down, I outlined the edges in red and black supracolour using a small brush and blended using my fingers.
• I then used the black supracolour to fill in the eye area to give it more depth.
• I then applied artificial blood around the edges and over the foil and smeared on the other half of my face to give it a more realistic look.

The finished look:

REMOVING

To remove the foil soak a cotton wool pad in mastix remover (not cotton wool balls as these have too many fibres) and gently rub the edges until they come away and continue to rub underneath so it peels away. Use a cotton bud when removing it from around the eye as the fumes are VERY strong. Then use a make-up wipe to remove the wax, supracolour and blood.

Well that is it! Hope you enjoyed reading this!

See you soon

Beth x

Before and After make-up and how to hide redness

Hi all,

I wanted to do a before and after make-up post to show how make-up can be used to enhance a person's features and also make their skin look healthier. I used my sister, Ellen for this, she doesn't wear any make-up at all except when she goes out and for special occasions. She has great skin, it isn't oily or has any spots (I'm not so lucky!), however she has a lot of redness. 

Here are the before and after shots...

So to start off, I used MAC's Studio Fix Fluid in NC15 and using a foundation brush (all my brushes I use are Crownbrush) I started on the jawline and worked my up and around her face and adding a bit more to the more red patches. 
Then I used Kryolan's camouflage palette and using a concealer brush applied it under and around the eyes.
Then to contour I used MAC's powder blush in Taupe and using an angled blusher brush, applied this under the cheekbones just to give a bit of structure. You can also apply it under the jawline as well to create more shadow to give the appearance of a stronger jawline.
Then I applied MAC's translucent face powder using a large, soft powder brush.

I then defined her eyebrows using MAC's refill eyeshadow pans in Coquette and Handwritten using an eyeshadow brush.

Then for her eyes I wanted just to define them to make the colour stand out as she has really lovely blue eyes, and to make them appear bigger. For this I used a cake eyeliner by Kryolan and a small liner brush and lined the upper lash line with a small flick. I then used a MAC eye pencil in black to line her water line. I then applied MAC's Zoomlash mascara in black.
Then to finish off I applied a clear gloss to her lips. 

I think this look really suits Ellen as it is not a heavy look, it is simple and pretty. If a person doesn't wear make-up everyday I don't like applying foundation too heavy as it can make them feel uncomfortable. I applied just enough here to give her an even skin tone and just a little contour to give a bit of structure. I love MAC's studio fix fluid as it has a medium coverage and you can build it if you want more. Kryolan's camouflage palette is highly pigmented so this is great at covering imperfections.

I hope you enjoyed reading this and found it helpful!
See you soon,
Beth x

Liquid Latex: how to use and what to use it for

Liquid latex is a great, versatile product. You can create really cool effects with it and make just about anything out of it. However, if you're new to using it, it can be a bit tricky to use. It is available to buy from almost any special effects make up shops, I get mine from Charles Fox. Make sure that it is suitable to be used on the body.

Safety first! 

It contains ammonia so it is very fume-y and smelly, so try not to use it in small, confined areas. 
This is a bit of a given, but do not get it in your eyes!
When applying on the skin, always, always use vaseline underneath it, this provides a barrier between the latex and the skin - more importantly, the hairs on your skin because believe me when I say it will hurt like hell if you try and pull it off and its sticking to your hair. 
When using on the face, be careful when using it around the eyes as your skin is more delicate, so be extra careful when removing it.

How to apply

I like to use wedge make up sponges, they're soft and easy to use and you can cover large areas quickly with them. Liquid latex will ruin anything you apply it with so I just throw the sponge away after I've used it, you don't want to be using your make-up brushes to apply it with as it will just stick to the hairs. If you prefer using brushes you can always buy cheap ones and throw them away afterwards.

I pour how ever much I need in a small bowl and then just use the sponge and start dabbing onto the skin where desired. Make sure to cover the area of skin in vaseline first, not a thick layer as the latex will never dry, just a thin layer is needed. To speed up the drying process you can use a hair dryer. Once it has dried it will go clear, then, if you want it thicker, apply more layers of latex. It will start to dry as a yellow colour the thicker it is.

You can then colour it using supracolour. I find this is the best thing to use as it covers well and is highly pigmented. I use my fingers, brushes and sponges to apply it, depending on what the look is.

Uses

Liquid latex is a great way to create blisters, burns, scars, wrinkles and gashes. Essentially it is like having a second skin. It is also used to create prosthetic appliances such as ears and noses. As I said it is very versatile. It is a lot of fun to play around with and experiment with to see what you can come up with.

Here are some looks I have created with it..

This is a 2nd degree burn effect. Here I have applied a thin layer of liquid latex, used my fingers to pull up parts to create blisters, used my fingers to colour it using a 'burns wheel' which is a set of colours used to create burns, available from Charles Fox and lastly applied some artificial blood. 
(*tip* using a cocktail stick is a great way to pull up parts and create holes.)

 This is a 3rd degree burn look. I used the same techniques as above but more extreme. 

This was inspired by a character from a television show. I used liquid latex to make it look like my skin was splitting. I used the same technique to create blisters but ripped them a bit more so that some bits were hanging off my face. I then used a dark artificial blood to cover them as well as supracolour from the 'burns wheel'.

Removing

If you're using it on more 'hardy' parts of the body such as hands and arms then you can usually peel it straight off. If you're using on the face or if you have more sensitive skin, it is better to use a cloth soaked in warm soapy water, apply this to your skin and gently pull of the latex. I have also found that using facial wipes are quite effective. 
(*tip* if I have any left over in the bowl and it hasn't dried, I pour it back into the bottle. Do not pour it down a sink because it may block it. Wait until it dries and then just peel it out of the bowl and throw it in the bin.)


I hope you enjoyed this and that it is useful to you!
See you soon
Beth x

Links:
Charles Fox: http://www.charlesfox.co.uk/

My website: http://bhaggar94.wix.com/bethfx

Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/bethhaggarmakeup